More than just "Hello Bonjour"

It's a good day for school. While I did have to skip my 8am French and the 10am Situating Ourselves courses so I could start to figure out how to get a doctor's appointment, it was still a good day for class. (Don't worry mom, it's just a normal ol' sinus infection or something. I hear the French have great health care so I should be good to go at a cheap rate in no time.)

I do love my Le Gales "State Restructuring and Policy Change: Government and Governance" course. (you can read the PDF at the bottom of this website if you're so inclined.) Today, he gave a few minutes away from the (ahem, boring) readings on State Regulation Within the State to discuss our final policy papers (4,000 words our choice of topics) and then talked for about an hour with us on the state of France and the strike and Sarkozy. I guess it was the first time I really spoke up in class - since I was the one who emailed the request to discuss. Finally, I guess we all decided that it's definitely time for France to reform and catch up to the globalization playing field, but we're not sure if Sarkozy will do (or has been doing) it in the best manner possible. The French don't necessarily support the strikes this time around, but they're not all out counter-protesting (although some are) since they recognize that sometime in the future it might be their retirement plan Sarkozy comes after.

I caught my #68 bus this morning just as I was about to duck down into the metro to give it a try. I got the #68 back home - totally jammed crowded and crawling slowly through traffic jams. I'm sure the air pollution is doing wonders for my skin and lungs. Regardless, I totally support those folks on strike and I sympathize (especially since I have no idea what it's like to be a train operator), but I do agree that




The Times They ARE A'Changing
(c/o micoolcho in Singapore)

..............

Yeah, so I'm struggling with which policy I'll pick. He's recommended we do a comparative analysis of a policy in 2 countries/areas. We're also not supposed to do something we're familiar with - there goes CCRV. And, of course, we can't do overlapping projects either, ie turn this paper into my "Regulation, Adjudication and Dispute Settlement Beyond the State" class. (I'm thinking about looking at the recent cybercrimes in different countries and analyzing how they're being handled legally and with which international orgs.) In my "Managing Innovation in the Globalising Learning Economy" we're working in groups. I've been spending about 4-6 hours a week with these guys, one from Berlin and the other from Seoul - very cool. We're conducting a survey of future policy makers and current decision-makers, analyzing the impact of pop culture on Seoul and the cultural growth in Berlin after Reunification. It's called "Investment in Social Capital and Cultural Industry - An Argument for Advancing Policy to Enhance Economies of Metropoles." (I invented the title while looking over the application process to UNESCO - they ask for projects, papers, thesis in the CVs of potential interns.)

Whew. And then there's group work in Econ and some paper we're supposed to write in Stats, too. Thankfully our "Situating Ourselves in Complex Settings" class (Organizational Theory) is over tomorrow and it was more of a workshop than a class. We did group work (ugh) to analyze a colleague's previous work dilemma. We're all sworn to secrecy not to reveal any details as it could compromise the person and the institution. But basically it had to do with a large institution not following its own HR policies versus possible corruption with some folks pocketing money skimmed from around the edges. I'm not sure we resolved this one. But it was nothing compared to some dude who talked about the levels of corruption and outright illegal activity he witnessed in an unnamed South American country. Not so much 'org theory' as down-right f'd up ness.

I do like the way this program is really hands-on, not just theoretical, philosophical but we're digging in and doing. This Saturday we'll start four (voluntary) courses on Econometrics and really see how to analyze policy with statistics etc.. or something like that. Then, since there weren't enough 2nd year students signed up for one of the concentrations, "Political Economy of Welfare Reform" will be a lecture series open to all. I'm definitely doing both of these voluntary classes. I figure it's the only chance I'll get so why not. I'll see Paris soon.

Oh, and if you can't keep up - it's all updated on the Mac calendar. Including the Paris Photo exhibition that I did squeeze in for 4 hours on Thursday. I skipped out after my 2-min presentation to the presentation skills course (pass/fail, "taught" by a consultant, really lame). Lisa, I'll have you know I got my "grades" back today and all the students and the consultant chick gave me scores of good to very good. Thanks to you it's old hat, I guess. The calendar also includes the Interpol concert I hope to make on Wednesday night - metros and my health willing.

Dude, Nicole, were you around when I was obsessed with trying to win the KEXP giveaway for tickets to see them in Paris? I sent like a postcard a day - and even had to run over to the capitol to buy lame capitol postcards so I wouldn't miss a day. And then I found out they only wanted 1 postcard per person for the drawing. I was crushed. Well... It's Paris. It's Interpol. I hope I get some good drugs from the doctor. Mannnn...

PS. A short, funny description of the difference between strikes in Paris and the USA. I love the description of a manifestation - the one I witnessed on Wednesday near school, I'm almost 100% positive the striker guys were drunk.

Fastest Update in the EU

I'm working on editing the Berlin photos right now. I tossed up a bunch of the Greve ones without labelling them because there were over 100+ and I just didn't have the time. There's day 1 of Berlin up but it's us kids in the airport - not interesting at all. Unless you dig Schoenefeld.

I'm off to go do groceries which requires planning and lists because, unlike the French, I like efficiency.

I'm definitely sure I made the right decision for school and for school in Paris. It's hard and wonderful at the same time, every day, all the time. Some days I feel like I've been thrown back into high school and feel drastically insecure about myself when I shouldn't since I'm a wonderfully mature and successful woman. Some days I feel frustrated by my lack of prior knowledge but I'm getting the big picture and seeing it all add up. Events outside of school are reinforcing the language I'm learning and the concepts and I feel like by the time I leave I will be on the cutting edge of leadership and policy, world change. That's exciting and comforting. Meanwhile, personally, I have some challenges. It's harder to get along with the younger students and it's harder to get along with French friends due to lack of time. I'm proud of myself that I've really taken to the bus routes (dude, RATP rules - on the upper left hand side is an interactive map of all bus lines, their timetables open in PDF and their routes are clearly outlined, same with metro, RER, and everything else). It's a great way to see Paris outside of my apartment and the school -- which end up seeing me most.

I loved visiting Berlin to see its dramatic changes between my last visit in 2002 and now. Thanks to Paul for the recommendation of Globetrotter Hostel!

So, we went to the World Bank the other day. You can see us here and watch the 2 hour lecture on "Research to Policy" here (opens into a Real Player video which I can't seem to save - must be locked).

Weather's turning colder here but no snow yet which makes me tremendously happy. There are anticipated strikes next week but I can't confirm things yet. I finally got a Navigo card (like 50E/month for all transport - it's a steal since I ride the bus/metro at least 2/day @ 1.50E/ea = 84E/month). I don't get the student discount because I'm old. Age discrimination is incredible in Europe. They don't comprehend why anyone would return to school for some reason. .. well, I know the reason, I just don't have time to expand on it here.

I promise more lengthly reports this weekend between reading reading reading and living.

Don't forget - plan your Europe vacation now and get free accommodations with me! I've already got my pals, the Lunds, visiting in January. Sooo excited to see them here and catch up -- J. Lund was 1 of the main recommenders for all my grad school apps, super cool guy/professor.

Ok, over n out.
BisouBisou

I got fat in Berlin

Well, I put the pounds back on that Paris made me lose. We ate so well in Berlin!

But I have to run off to a group work meeting (during vacation no less! blasphemy!) and then I have to use this vacation / reading week to actually catch up on reading so the blog post will have to wait.

In the meantime, there are a ton of new Paris photos - trying to catch up with those before loading up the Berlin ones.

Here's the link to the sets. What's new?

La Fete des Vendanges de Montmartre
dinners (yes, mom, I'm eating)
#74 bus ride
Sciences Po events (INSEAD RESPONSE conference - highlight was seeing the President of Microsoft International, low point was realizing they all do the corporate social responsibility for the money)
Day in the 1eme and Marais
Nuit Blanche (added and grouped)
Montmartre 18eme
Marais - 3eme and 4eme (post-Soiree Blanche, walking around the day after)
Saint Germain / rue du Bac (I was focusing on capturing some fashion on the streets and coats I'm interested in)
Pigalle / Clichy (like maybe 4 photos here)
Paris Metro (starting a collection of metro pics I think)

Here are some for persual now:

Boob tube

I don't have a TV in my apartment although today I wish to hell I had one. EXhausted! Not that it's impossible, but you know it's sometimes hard to remind myself that I'm completely exhausted in Paris. Everything becomes relative and home is where you lay your head (even if the futon is a bit hard). So, after a point of tiredness, even cobblestones and amazing cityscapes and French language and grey skies and dog crap on the sidewalk and the 7:30am "bonjour" greeting to the bus driver can all become a wash. It's Mondays that are going to kick my butt. Not that it sounds that bad, in fact, it sounds like a day at the office.

Get up at 6:00am
Thank god that something automatically wakes me up - again, I accidentally set it to 6:00pm
Roll around for 10 minutes wondering how I can get myself up before sunrise and wondering when sunrise will meet me in the morning again.
Smart school girl has already checked the weather the night before and picked out her outfit.
Turn The Current on (Radio K is too sporadic sometimes, and I hate Pledge Drive weeks -- yes, yes, I've given before) - very low volume. The walls aren't all that thick.
Shower - which is fabulous.
Lotion - it's drier here than I thought it would be. My hair requires more conditioner than ever before and I'm constantly thirsty and need lotion a lot earlier in the year than usual.
Start up the Italian press - how bad is aluminum for my brain and Alzheimer's anyway? Is it even confirmed?
Dress.
Catch up on emails (timezone weirdness) and Facebook and news. I finally got my Euro Newsweek and October's Wired. Also, we get a subscription to Economist online. Niiiice.
My new French shoulder bag has these awesome side pockets that are deeper than my thermos so I pack a coffee thermos some days or just pack it with apple and tasty energy bars (at least I think they're energy bars, or maybe they're weight-watchers type bars).
Down the 100+ stairs, down the hallway, hit the "Porte" button to unlock the door, out. I can see planets and stars but people are awake. People are always awake in my neighborhood. Head west to the end of the block, cross over, north 1/2 a block and there's the bus stop for #68. Except, it hasn't been on time yet. And, no, it's not me, thank you.
I whisper "bonjour" with my headphones on. No one talks on mass transit and it's almost frowned upon to converse or - god forbid - laugh loudly. Plus, I've got some reading to do. The two women who get on after me both say "bonjour" loudly enough to the bus driver that I can hear them. Hmm it's really a very polite country. It's super duper impolite to enter a shop and not say "bonjour" or "bonsoir." And it's super impolite to not wish the other person a good day or good evening with "bon journee" or "bonne soirée." For some reason I just didn't think this extended to the bus driver so much - how terrible of me! ... so I whispered it today, tomorrow I'll shout it to the rooftops!
Roughly 22min down Rue Blanche, past l'Opera, through the Louvre plaza (Erin, I keep passing the metro stop just down from our hotel and think of you!), along the Seine, and then hook into Saint Germain, turn left onto rue du Bac and I get off.
Run up the stairs to the 3rd floor, buzz in.

French class. Means you have to actually think. And think in a different part of your brain. And remember things from 17 years ago. And distinguish between Spanish and French. At least I'm not the only brain-dead in the course. 8am-10am

Today I wanted to sit in on "Regulation, Adjudication and Dispute Settlement Beyond the State" with Professor (or his Eccellenza) Sabino Cassese. Not that I don't want to be in Daniel Vaughan-Whitehead's course, because of course I want to take them all! But maybe I feel like I know a bit more about "Policy-making in Transition: Tools and Strategies" than International Law.

So, I dropped Transitions for Law (Chris T and Andrea G would be so proud!).

Regulation 10am-1pm. Only, Mr. Cassese goes on and on until 1:15pm, leaving me barely enough time to gulp down my sandwich crudite-thon (salad and tuna sandwich) from the basement of the main Sciences Po building (2,40E and full of fattening things like mayo and eggs).

We all bust over across the street from our department to another building for the last class "State Restructuring and Policy Change: Government and Governance" with Patrick Le Galès. So far this class (required for all 1st year students) has been pretty good in explaining where we're at in the spectrum of public policy but today - as he warned - would be directed at those with little to no policy experience (yawn - been there, done that). 2pm-5pm.

Okay, so it's literally a full work day with a nice away-from-desk lunch break (during which I got to read this article on abortion rates in the Int'l Herald Tribune - actually from the NYT). Except that, well, I just haven't worked my brain this hard in a while. It was on a nice vacation in La Crosse and then an overwhelmed vacation in Paris. Essentially, right after class let out, I got back to Rue du Bac, got in line and caught the first #68 back up the hill to my apartment. And all I wanted was a TV with the Simpsons and maybe a bit of like Heros or Desperate Housewives or Grey's Anatomy. Instead, I reminded myself I needed to hit the Supermarche. This is still a bit overwhelming. Less so when I'm starved though.

Anyway. Yes, bitch moan. And, yes, I realize I'm exhausted and complaining IN Paris. An oh-so-sad place to be. But really, it does become relative and daily and needs are the same. Today I could use a big ol' upper back crack from Josh. Or maybe a stroll around the capitol with Nicole and Sara. A funny ha ha joke with Tanya. A high-five dance with Shelle. A big ol' hug from my parents... it was so nice of them, by the way, to wait over by the edge of the entrance as I made my way through the security line at O'Hare. It was a good 20 minutes I'm sure and at every bend in the line I could look over someone's head and see them peeking around the corner. Thank god for G-chat and Skype. Thank god for innovation!

Well, that's enough procrastination on reading this whole case by 12 hours from now. Whoops. Well... I do have to allow myself time to ease in to the whole study lifestyle. And, yes, even though I'm very tired, I'm totally thrilled and amazed. It's been a month and 4 days now and I feel like it's just going too darn fast already!!

Much love

oh and new photos added daily!

Lately I've been thinking about lovers and transport

In rue de Douai apartment, Paris.

Well, there's just too much to share and too little time when things move quickly. I had high hopes on detailing each step I took, found, got help with to get here. I'd like to help others who are interested in participating in this program or in graduate school in Paris for it seems like there's a need.

Last Friday, I met an American student from my program and she hadn't heard anything from the financial aid office here, had no idea that the Free Application for Federal Student Aid 8-page Student Aid Report (FAFSA SAR) had to be post-mailed to Sciences Po, to the chosen loaning bank, and the loan brokers/"police."

On the same hand, as we were comparing our Type-A personalities and the feeling of lack of information for preparation, she reminded me that, well, it's just France. It's another culture. It's another way of living. Details later. General idea now. Sip your lovely cheap wine, amble slowly up the rue, and worry not.

So, I guess, I'll try to piece it all together as things go but I won't hold myself to some rigid tale of step 1 to step 2 to steps all the way to this apartment near Pigalle.

And yes, here I am sipping some of that lovely, cheap, red wine. I've closed the shutters to the main rue outside and am ready to give a bit of reflection thus far.

There are some small tidbits missing from every travel guide and every website I've seen so far. Small tidbits which can explain a culture, an attitude, a mannerism, a way to get lost or be found, a way to get along or feel isolated. For instance, the metro - main arteries of travel in the heart of Paris, the subway - stops running around 12:45/1am.

Now, today is precisely the 6th day I've been in Paris, and the 9th day in total that I've ever been here. Native Parisians and new locals keep telling me I should try the bus or Velib to get from place to place. Well, I've decided that travel through the city will be kind of like Donkey Kong. Level 1 (least difficulty): cab from airport to apartment; Level 2: walk from apartment to food shopping street (rue Lepic), Sacre Coeur, restaurants; Level 3: metro from apartment to school area; Level 4 - take a bus from apartment to Champs Elysees; Level 5 - Velib around; Level 6 - Velib bike at NIGHT; Level 7 - become an expert on Noctilien buses. So far I've gotten to Level 4 without incident and got a brief tour of the night bus last weekend by a fellow student who lives in my neighborhood.

Each a little bit more of a risk. Each a little bit more of confusion. Each a little bit more of a loss of control. Each an adventure, each a success, each a trial. I'm pacing myself with the newness of it all. After all, I'd prefer not to go into culture shock and a slow toe-in to the whole adventure will make for an easier adjustment to the next two years.

So, as I was saying. The metro stops running quite early. They say New York is the city that never sleeps. And I hear Paris is for lovers. Somehow I thought that love would happen at all hours and the quickest link between two hearts would seem to be the metro. Alas, not so. Perhaps there is more romance in the late-night/early morning desire via bicycle.

Anyway, thank goodness for the tour of the Noctilien bus. Inch by inch I'll feel more freedom as I get to know the veins and arteries, short-cuts and bike lanes of Paris.